Archive for the ‘Wine Bars’ Category

What makes a good wine?

Sunday, January 20th, 2008

What makes a wine GOOD?

Is it a high score from a critic?

Is it a technically well made wine (proper balance of tannins, alcohol, acid, fruit, etc.)?

Is it a wine with a nice mouth feel?

OR, is it simply a wine that YOU like?

OBVIOUSLY, this is a loaded question. I think presented with this question in a comparable multiple choice format, 99 out of 100 people would say – well of course it is a wine that YOU like.

But I am raising the question as i wonder if this is a question many winemakers & wine consumers need to really examine.

With regards to consumers, this question is both complicated and straight forward. Complicated in that I don’t think too many people would admit that they buy wine based on price or scores, but it is a sad reality. Wine consumers have SOOO many choices, how does one narrow those choices down? Start by eliminating wines out of your price range (too high) or whose price tags lead you to believe they can not be any good (too low).

You can then narrow it down by deciding between red or white, eliminating wines from countries you might not be interested in (DO NOT eliminate Israeli wines) or whose labels you don’t like (silly but frequently done). Skip wines made from varietals (grapes) you are not interested in (or are out of fashion ie. Merlot), or a host of other reasons that make sense to you. Easy right? Well, you probably still have several thousand wines left to choose from. OK, I’ve gotten a bit carried away, especially since this was not the intended direction of this post. And while any method you choose in picking a wine is right, I’ll simply say that while variety is nice, I would recommend tasting wines and finding ones YOU LIKE. One of the best ways of doing this is attending wine tastings and going to Wine bars to find wines, styles & wine producing countries you like.

As to where I INTENDED to go with this email…the wineries and their respective winemakers.

I completely understand that as idealistic as it would be to have a winemaker who makes wine THEY like as opposed to one they can sell, that winemaker might find them self out of business very quickly. Obviously they have to make a wine they can sell.

OK, then what? Do you make a “Parker Wine” (a wine made in a style known to be preferred by influential wine critic Robert Parker)? Do you make a “Lab Wine” (one whose PH, TA & other technical aspects are all where they “should” be)? Do you make a wine you think you’ll be able to sell? Do you make a wine YOU like? Or do you make a wine you think your peers will like?

This is a question I won’t even attempt to answer. But I raise it having recently read about a winemaker in California who admitted to falling into the Parker trap. He was making a very ripe, heavily extracted, high alcohol wine. And he found himself getting high scores, selling a lot of wine, and shopping a lot for OTHER PEOPLE’S WINES. He has since declared that he is getting back to making wines he can enjoy that are to be lower in alcohol & less ripe. I wish him a lot of success. While I think that his “Anti-conformist” attitude might help to initially garner some loyal customers, in the long run a lower score might hurt overall sales.

I feel like I opened up a big can of smelly worms and am now walking away… I’m sorry – I’m tired and have football on my mind. I know I resolved nothing here. I suppose just some topics to ponder and revisit in future posts. Or maybe I reintroduced something for both consumers & winemakers to think about…and maybe they should each ALSO consider what the other thinks about when either making or purchasing wine.

Have a great week everybody. And drink whatever BLEEPIN wine you want to drink!

WTG.

Wine bar proliferation – can the market become saturated??

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

I live on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. Upon returning from a 4 month stay in Napa, CA about 10 months ago I discovered “wine bars” for the first time. As it turned out, there were 2 in my neighborhood. One which had been around for about a year, and another which had just recently opened up.

Fast forward 10 months. One stretch, 3 blocks long on Columbus Ave now contains 4 wine bars, another stretch on Broadway just south of the Columbus stretch contains another 2, and further uptown there is at least 1 other I am aware of which is preparing to open up.

So in about a 1 year time frame the number went from 1 wine bar to 7.

So the question is, will wine bars simply be a fad and will all these places opening up go out of business quickly?? OR will they become like the Pizzaria’s on the 50’s & 60’s & the Sushi places of the 90’s & early 2000’s, where there seems to be another pizza shop or sushi place on every corner and enough business for all of them????

Wining and even some dining

Thursday, December 6th, 2007

Too “tired” from all the wine last night to blog. But I was out at a couple of important places and there is lots to write. So without further ado…

I was to have drinks with a gentleman who was interested in being involved with the Israel Wine project I am working on. Given that the project involves wine from a specific region, we decided to check out a wine bar in NYC that has wines (and food style) exclusively from a non-traditional wine region – South Africa. In a nutshell, this large wine bar has done so much right, but seems to be missing “it”.

Upon arriving at the bar the place was quite crowded – but what wine bars aren’t these days. It took several minutes for someone to even acknowledge our presence, and once that was done, it took several more minutes before we were assured we would be seated shortly.

Once we were (finally) seated, we quickly picked out two S. African wines that had a little age to them. MISTAKE. Now I know, I must do a better job documenting the exact wines, but I do remember that we ordered a 2000 Merlot & a 2001 Cabernet. The merlot was either oxidized, past its prime (yet still tannic?), blended with Pinotage (I’m not a fan), or full of Brett (brettanomyces). The Cab seemed better, but it was the type of wine where the nose did not carry over to the palate. It had an unusual candied/sour cherry & cherry wood nose while the palate was more dark fruit and oak driven. Better than the merlot, but not great.

Now I must admit, there is 1 thing I love about this wine bar. Upon receiving your wine, customers get an empty glass & a small carafe of the wine they ordered. This allows the drinker(s) to pour as much or as little as they want at a time. It also makes sharing easier.

After the wine bar we were off to Capsouto Freres in Tribeca. CF is known for their wines, and it just so happens that there was an article in yesterdays NY Sun about Jacques, the proprietor, and his ambassador-ship for Israeli wines in particular ( http://www.nysun.com/article/67518 ).

Upon arriving at CF we informed Jacques that we read the article in the paper and I reminded him that we had previously met. I think he was pleased that we had seen the piece and he graciously engaged us in conversation about Israeli wine. Not only does Jacques have a fine palate, but he is a shrewd businessman. He selects fine wines for his wine list, but also seeks out deals and is consequently able to offer wines at very fair prices.

At Jacques’ recommendation we selected the 2001 Yatir blend – made from 60% Cab & 40% Merlot. This wine was made from fruit from the Judean Hills region & 2001 was (I believe) the first vintage released by Yatir. Sadly the wine was not overly impressive. While it was better than the South African wines we had earlier in the evening, it possessed some heat, and tasted a bit “cooked”. What might once have been nice fresh plums, was both smelling and tasting a bit like cooked plums & other jammy fruit.

All in all a wonderful evening with a new friend and possible business partner, but somewhat disappointing wines.

TONIGHT I will be tasting Châteauneuf-du-Pape with my tasting group. Very much looking forward & I hope to post a full tasting report at my earliest convenience…

Happy drinking!

WTG.

Wine Bar food options

Wednesday, December 5th, 2007

A quick post tonight.

I was out at a wine bar last night with a business contact. We each ordered a glass of Ridge 3 vineyards Zinfandel. Those Ridge people really know their Zin.

Anyway, we also decided to go with their 4 cheese platter. We got to pick 4 cheeses from about 10 different options. And it came with some sort of dried date thing. All very nice, and still good so far.

HOWEVER, the platter also came with fruit. Fruit goes with wine, right? One thing. It had a very aesthetically pleasing granny smith apple cut into nice skinny slices. Now HOLD EVERYTHING. A wine bar served an apple, let alone granny smith??? PLEASE, anyone out their, correct me if I am wrong (which is entirely possible), but aren’t apples loaded with malic acid? Isn’t malic acid something which clashes with wines? Especially wines that have undergone malolactic fermentation (a process whereby the more harsh malic acid in wine is converted into the smoother lactic acid)???

This is just one example. But what I’d REALLY LOVE to hear (from anyone out there) is how you feel about food served at wine bars. Should all the food “complement” the wine, or does it not really matter???

Happy Hanukah to all who are celebrating!

WTG.

My first blog entry – a blind date at a local wine bar…

Monday, November 26th, 2007

It’s late, I have a nice buzz, so I’ll keep this (first) one brief.

I went on a (blind) date with a nice young woman tonight. Another woman who “likes sweet wine” I took her to the local wine bar (yeah, real creative WTG). Although it is a Monday, the deadest night in the food/beverage industry, we waited about 20 minutes for a place to sit. I think that since I know and said hi to the owner, the hostess sat us at a table before another couple who had arrived before us. That other couple glared at us, and were clearly NOT happy.

On to the wine. The lady I was with likes sweet wine. But, she said, if the wine is not sweet, it should be red. Sweet & red??? OK, now I’m confused. There would be no sweet red wine served that night. I still have nightmares of thick, syrupy sweet red wine. NEVER AGAIN! I asked her how she felt about Cabernet. Blank stare. Do you like Merlot? Still nothing. Finally, I asked if she liked a big, chewy red, or a light red without the big mouth feel. Lite she said, although I think after 10 minutes of perusing the menu, she would have said whatever she thought would have gotten me to just order something already.

Lite it was, and we settled on a Pinot Noir. But now, where would the Pinot be from? Price was of course a concern. I would have loved to have splurged on a premier cru Burgundy, but I have yet to make my first million (does that count for anything anymore?). The waitress recommended a California Pinot, but at $80 bottle, kinda steep, especially for someone who is not a big fan of California Pinot – too fruity!  We settled on a New Zealand Pinot Noir priced at $44.

The Pinot, which had a screwcap (not a negative in my mind) and a cheesy label, was actually OK. It had some nice red fruit, but it also had a touch of earthiness, well integrated oak, a nice crisp acidity & a medium finish. My Napa contacts might kill me for saying this, but I think I preferred this wine to some of the high scoring California Pinot’s I have had. The Cali Pinot is SO DAMN FRUIT FORWARD. Even the Cali Pinot’s I was told would be “elegant” or “feminine” have this big artificial fruit taste to them. Bottom line, I had about 3+ glasses, my date had 1+ and we each left happy (I hope).

As to the date, well…..tune in to see if there is a second date.

Happy Monday!

-The Wine Tasting Guy (WTG).